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Ink-Stained Wretches - Body Art:

Marks of Identity exhibition at the American Museum of Natural History, New York, New York National Review

MOST of us view the human body as a rental rather than a condo: We have the use of it during the brief season of our tenancy, but we are loath to initiate any

permanent modifications beyond those dictated by nature and medical necessity. Which is to say that we have no intention of getting ourselves pierced, scarified, or tattooed if we can possibly help it.

But if this is the majority opinion, the majority is shrinking every day. By treating the current fad for piercing and tattoos, a new exhibition at the American Museum of Natural History in Manhattan addresses a cultural phenomenon that can no longer be ignored. It concerns the first frontier of primitive cultures and the last frontier of our own, the human body itself. Near the entrance 

to Body Art: Marks of Identity stands an Athenian red- figure vase portraying a tattooed Thracian, a barbarian living at the fringes of the known world.For over 2,000 years, this was about as close as our society came to body art. Surely hair styles and clothes, those vain "lendings" that Lear flung off in his madness, were subject to infinite variation. And surely pirates, lowlifes, and drunken sailors might

submit themselves to some form of corporeal revision. But for nice people, the body remained an undiscovered country,
far beyond the reach of human artifice.
Body Art Paint with Hair and Flower Installation
Body Art Paint with Hair and Flower Installation
Body Art Paint with Parrot painted on upper front
Body Art Paint with Parrot painted on upper front

In most other societies, however, the body was the first thing to be called into question.

Body Art images chin lady myanmar - burma

From China to Peru, the irksome fixities of inherited form were relentlessly challenged, until living tissue came to be viewed as a kind of canvas to be adorned, a clay to be sculpted and carved. Body Art presents us with images of Inca princes with conical skulls and Nuba warriors whose bodies are painted to a supernatural sheen. Dozens of tiny shoes, which once shod the bound feet of well-born Chinese women, are set near pendulous weights that hung from the elongated ears of the Zapotec Indians of Mexico. More appalling are the ritualized scarifications of the Papuans of New Guinea, whose bodies teem with hardened masses of patterned welts.

Ethnology aside, the real thrust of the show is the recent and faddish introduction of tattoos and piercing into the mainstream of modern industrial society. In tracing the history of tattoos in the West, the curators have included reproductions of the watercolors of John White, one of the first English men to visit the New World, depicting the natives of Virginia, their fronts and backs marred with mysterious symbols. We learn as well of such 19th-century characters as Edith the Tattooed Lady and Mildred, "New York's Only Lady Tattooer." Nearby are the tools of her trade, contraptions with spikes and cranks and knobs that look for all the world like the implements of medieval penitence.

Now that tattooing, like everything else, has become computerized, it is a little more highbrow than in the past. True, most customers still choose hoary standards like the Blessed Virgin, the bulldog, and the rose. But one woman featured in Body Art, naked except for her turban, has adorned her back with a reproduction of Joan Miro. A young man has opted for Boldini's portrait of Verdi, while another has chosen to cover his entire body, including his shaved head, in the patterns of a jig-saw puzzle. No one, however, does it better than the Japanese, though they have only relatively recently imported tattoos from the West. Whereas Occidental tattoos are mostly isolated images placed here and there on the skin, in Japan they have a much more organic relation to the human form, their dizzily swirling dragons and vines exploding across the body like fragments of a shattered kaleidoscope. How did it happen that this interest in piercing and tattoos has made its way from the fringes of society to the center, or very near it? It is a question that does not greatly interest the curators of the exhibition. The closest they come to an explanation is pure '90s boilerplate. "Body art allows people to reinvent themselves as rebels," theBody Art Paint the upper Back opening panel informs us, "to follow fashions, to play and experiment with new identities.

Like performance artists and actors, people in everyday life use body art to cross boundaries of gender, national identity, and cultural stereotypes."
Of course, there is more to it than that. As with any cultural current, even the simplest, this new taste is a composite of heartfelt convictions and half-formed ideas. It engages that spirit of nonconformity, real or feigned, that has been lodged in our collective semi- consciousness since the '60s. Both the biker who covers his body with skulls and the coed who chooses a rose for her ankle or a ring for her lip believe that they are engaging in acts of nonconformity. "I knew that my mother would hate it,"one polite young woman remarks, by way of motive, in a taped interview for the exhibit. Her attitude is in curious contrast to that of the inhabitants of New Guinea, Ama zonia, and Sudan, where such practices originated and where, invariably, they represent the most ent renched conformity to inherited cultural patterns.

In part, tattoos reflect that convergence of high and low culture that defines much of postmodern society. This convergence ex presses itself in everything from the graffiti art of Jean-Michel Bas quiat to the casual clothes donned in the boardrooms of Silicon Valley. By wearing a tattoo, by co- opting the insignia of popular culture, even outlaw culture, one seems to embrace the person at the fringes of society. The process of assimilation is an interesting one. The glamorous world of high fashion and high culture dips into the "colorful" world of the fringes, and five years later these borrowings filter down into the middle class, where they eventually expire. Put another way, piercings and tattoos have passed from bohemia and the inner city into our elite college campuses, only to end up in suburbia.

Chin People Body Art old Fashion is New FashionPerhaps the best explanation of the new fashion is contained in two tiny questions that go to the heart of postmodern society: Why not? and What if? From electronic books to virtual reality, from online universities and same-sex marriages to cloning and S&M, the spirit of the age expresses itself in a restive and reflexive calling into question of all things. The very fact that something is a cultural given, that it has been established for as long as men can remember, is sufficient to make it an object of suspicion and a target of radical revision. Part of what drives the taste for tattoos is the collective awakening to the fact that the body, which Western society has traditionally viewed as inviolable, as the most fixed of all things, can indeed be altered by conscious art. In this sense, body art, like cosmetic surgery, is the flashy epidermal counterpart to pace-makers and a whole generation of cloned and bionic parts that, science assures us, lies just around the corner.

One cannot say how long the taste for piercings and tattoos will last. What is certain is that, with the promise of ever-longer life spans, a whole generation in its teens and twenties will have many years to reflect on, and perhaps to repent of, these all-too-permanent whims of their youth. Author James Gardner COPYRIGHT National Review, Inc. and Gale Group
 

Body image: are tattoos taboo?

Salvador Dali had his mustache, Andy Warhol had his wig, and Wendy O. Williams had her duct tape. Artists have always drawn outside the lines in their work and their lives, decorating themselves as an extended form of creative expression. Over the years, the age-old art of tattooing has gained new currency, growing increasingly popular as an individual--and indelible--declaration of self. If you're a painter, a writer, a comic, of a rock star, you can ink yourself as often as you like, but if you're a working dancer, your body is your instrument. Beyond movement, how much freedom do you have to express yourself with it?

Dance companies are more lenient about tattoos than you might expect, and certainly more so than they once were. Urban Ballet Theater artistic director Daniel Catanach, for example, has no objections to his dancers having tattoos, and didn't think tattoos would have been a problem when he danced with Karole Armitage. But when he danced at the School of American Ballet and Kansas City Ballet, he said the dancers would scarcely have dared. "We were too afraid," he said. "We didn't do anything--we didn't even speak."


Ballet companies aren't necessarily more strict about tattoos than modern companies, though. In fact, many major ballet companies--New York City Ballet, Miami City, Ballet, Boston Ballet, Houston Ballet, and Pacific Northwest Ballet among them--have no written policy about dancers with tattoos, although company representatives say they do expect those dancers to exercise common sense with every role. (As one

company administrator put it, "Obviously, Siegfried doesn't have a tattoo.") San Francisco Ballet spokesperson Kyra Jablonsky said they have no official policy but, like tans or very short hair for women, "If someone changes their look in a way that is drastically different from the look of the company, they will be expected to cover it up or fix it. Women with really short hair wear falls for romantic roles; those with tans powder themselves, and tattoos are covered with makeup."

That's the case at Houston Ballet, says corps de ballet member Peter Gleeson. He agrees that a tattoo would look out of place in a classical ballet, although he has danced for contemporary choreographers who liked his tattoos and incorporated them into the costuming. "Everyone has their idea of what's beautiful of cool," he said. Gleeson got the Chinese symbol for dance imprinted on his lower back when he was a student in Houston's ballet academy. Before he began dancing, he had a large dragon's head tattooed on his shoulder. Recently he had his family's coat of arms tattoed on his other shoulder. He sees his tattoos as a natural extension of his dancing journey. "Tattoos mark a time and place in your life," he says. "They're a road map." He can think of at least a half-dozen other dancers in his company who have tattoos too. "It's really a large part of our culture," he said "A tattoo creates something more personal; it helps you stand out, and catch a person's eye."

Brian McCormick, a critic and the managing director of nicholasleichterdance (See "25 to Watch," January 2002, page 67) agrees, but it's the eye-catching aspect that he objects to. "For a viewer it can be distracting," he said. "It's their bodies, but it pricks you out of your viewing of what's happening. It's like 'Oh, what is that?' I saw a dancer recently with a really beautiful costume but she had a tattoo on her back, and it didn't look like the costume was designed with that in mind. It got in the way of what was happening movement-wise."

McCormick said Leichter's company has no rules about tattoos, and wouldn't rule out a dancer for having one. But because the work, non-narrative "pore" dance, "is very much about the group and the relationships in the group," nobody wears jewelry onstage, and dancers would be asked to cover tattoos. None of the company's dancers have visible tattoos, although some have piercings, which they remove before performances for partnering safety as well as for aesthetics. "The body is a vehicle of communication," McCormack said. "I guess that's really the main issue for me."

Dancer-choreographer Kriota Willberg takes a similar position. "As an audience member during performances, I've often found that something like a tattoo catches nay eye, and if I like it, I stop watching the dancing, and start watching the tattoo itself move around the stage. This pushed me to decide to put my tattoo on my hip, so that it could be hidden if need be," she says.
Body Art Paint with strong colors and Hair and Flower InstallationBody Art Paint doing the painting

Kimani Fowlin, who teaches at Rutgers University Mason Gross School of the Arts, argues that tattoos transform the body into living art. Fowlin's back is tattooed with Kali Ma, the Hindu goddess of dance and destruction, and she has a snake-like form near her pelvis. She round no problems at M'zawa Danz, a mix of modern, hip-hop, and African dance led by a tattooed choreographer, Maia Claire Garrison. The same was true of African company Harambee and the modern choreographer Andrea E. Woods, although the wardrobe in Woods' period pieces required that the dancers cover up anyway. "It's a part of me," said Fowlin, who also has nose and navel piereings. "If they tell me that [I can't have them], I know that I can't be a part of that company."

Bradley Shelver also got his tattoos with dance specifically in mind. Shelver has performed with Ailey II, Elisa Monte Dance, Complexions, and as a guest artist with ballet companies. He got his tattoos his first year in New York: Like Gleeson, he has the Chinese symbol for dance tattooed on one ankle, and a pair of footprints surrounded by the sun tattooed on his hip. At Ailey, he was told to cover them up; with Monte, whose work he says "is all about the physical body and its beauty," the director let the dancers show them. "I have always felt that dance would stay in my life and therefore with me forever," he said. "I wanted to take that a step further, so that people could know the importance it has in my life. I consider them to be a reminder of how difficult but emotionally rewarding dance is." Most dancers have not found their tattoos to be a problem in getting roles. "I've never been turned down because of my tattoos," said Fabio Tavares, a performer with Streb. "In some cases, choreographers even want to show the tattoos. Only one time was I required to cover a tattoo, and I think it had more to do with the character in the piece than the choreographer's preference."

Tamieca McCloud, a former Pilobolus dancer and artistic director of Restless Native Dance, agrees. "I haven't been turned down because of my tattoos--body art paint or nay brow piercing--at least not to nay knowledge," she notes.

So how do dancers reconcile their love of tattoos with their love of dance? Creatively, of course. Some get tattooed and body art paint in less visible places, like Michael Waiters, who had his hips tattooed after he left Juilliard and before he landed a job with Nederlands Darts Theater, which be described as fairly conservative. When she needs to,

Fowlin covers her ink and body paint with costumes or regular foundation. Gleeson has used flesh-colored tape, and he's partial to Ben Nye tattoo and body art paint cover-up. "It's a very thick, heavy makeup," he said. "I usually do two layers plus setting powder. If you take time to match the skin color, you can be standing next to someone and they won't even know."

Most dancers have a good sense of what's appropriate, said Gleeson's boss, Houston Ballet artistic director Stanton Welch. "I've never heard of a policy in my travels. There's always someone with a tattoo, and they always cover them up. I don't know how fashionable they were--it's definitely a fashion now. The funny part is, they're not that visible in the audience. You think everyone can see them but they just look like a birthmark."


 

Welch said he has seen tattoos incorporated into the work. "We've had costumes where we actually made tattoos and body paint--X, at The Australian Ballet, and Taiko at San Francisco Ballet. It's no problem as long as, depending on the ballet, dancers can cover them up." Welch doesn't have any himself, although he has contemplated getting one. The problem, he said wryly, is that, "You have to have a body part that will stay the same shape for the rest of your life. I don't know what that would be on me."
Heather Wisner, a former DM associate editor, is a freelance writer. COPYRIGHT Dance Magazine, Inc. COPYRIGHT Gale Group

Welch said he has seen tattoos incorporated into the work. "We've had costumes where we actually made tattoos--X, at The Australian Ballet, and Taiko at San Francisco Ballet. It's no problem as long as, depending on the ballet, dancers can cover them up." Welch doesn't have any himself, although he has contemplated getting one. The problem, he said wryly, is that, "You have to have a body part that will stay the same shape for the rest of your life. I don't know what that would be on me."
Author Heather Wisner, a former DM associate editor, is a freelance writer. COPYRIGHT Dance Magazine, Inc.& Gale Group


 
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